February, 2012

Chateau Brelidy

Dating from 1342, this castle was given a new life as a hotel and restaurant. Groups of students have been clearing the feudal mound that dates from the middle ages and are scheduled to complete it by next April. Its about a half hour from our front door.

The Open-Centre Turbine

You know, for being off the main drag of the really ‘happening’ places in France, we still seem to see our share of pretty cool stuff. I have written before about some cutting edge technological stuff that has been developed or deployed here, and this month we have a new one. I have mentioned in the past that our coastal area has the second most significant tides in the world and the highest tides in Europe. Only the Bay of Fundy in Canada is greater.

In some areas here, the tide can vary as much as 47 feet (15 M). Because of the gentle slope of the beach, the sea can recede over 9 miles out (15 Km) but return faster than a galloping horse. We even have a local seaside restaurant that at times of really high tides in the summer, can have clients sitting in ankle deep water. OK, so its not for everyone.

As a result of these geographical peculiarities, they have just launched a 45 foot diameter (15 m) Open-Centre Turbine off of a beach just up the road from us. Designed to be deployed directly on the seabed, it is one of the world's first tidal energy technologies to reach the development stage of permanent deployment at sea.

It is silent and invisible from the surface and is located at a depth sufficient to prevent any navigational hazard. The plan is to create farms of Open-Centre Turbines to provide a significant and undetectable supply of clean, predictable, renewable energy.

What’s new?

The area of Brittany we live in is called “La Cote de Granite Rose” (the pink granite coast) and it has historically been the predominant signature product of the region which kept the local quarry’s humming…until the Chinese showed up. The attractive stone is used for everything from the premier building material in the construction of homes and businesses, to cobblestone, sidewalk pavers or whatever.

In the 90’s, the Chinese began loading pink granite from their quarry’s as ballast into the ships that carried cargo from China to France. Once here, they sold it for whatever they could get for it, but soon found a willing market. Now they are on the verge of putting the locals right out of business. Incredibly, the Chinese can quarry the stone, ship it around the word to France and sell it at one sixth (1/6) of the price that they can here, digging it up a mere 10 miles (16 km) from our front door. Locally quarried Granite cost $800. (600 Euros) per cubic yard (M), while the Chinese sell theirs for $130. (100 Euros)

You think this is easy to hold up?

As in all cases, the Chinese can often out maneuver the competition by avoiding such expensive inconveniences as safety and environmental standards. In truth though, there is one more rather important factor. The French hold dear to their right to a 35 hour work week but the Chinese rack up that many hours in 3 days.

Note door size and slate roof between boulders

It is simply a fact of life that the cost of all the benefits and lifestyle the French have come to expect and demand has a heavy competitive price. Speaking of which, the French government has just announced plans to raise the sales tax (VAT) from 19.6% to 21.2%. Ahhh, a tax increase… that always helps!

Finally, we have made a couple of recent discoveries. The first was finding a terrific indoor pool in a nearby community right on the beach. This one is quite different in that it has features I have never seen in a pool before. For one, it draws all of its water from a pipe nearly 2 miles (3 Km) out at sea and heats it to 86 degrees (30C). For another, the pool has a number of jets as you would find in a spa or hot tub that can be directed to your back, feet or legs, rain showers to sit under and have the water just drip down soothingly over you.

View outside pool windows

Finally, there are directional jets that cause a river type current in a part of the pool if you want to float downstream or swim against if you prefer the exercise. The only thing missing is a floating table, a bottle and two wine glasses! They do make up for it with a floor to ceiling 100 foot long (33 m) glass wall with an unobstructed view of the beach and sea.

WWII B-17 American bomber "Stinky Weather" crew perished here.

Next, we heard about a memorial to an American WWII B-17 bomber crew that was shot down December 31st, 1943. We jumped into the car and went and found it on a beach a mere 9 miles (13km) from the house. The story goes that they were trying to ditch it out at sea so the Germans wouldn't get their hands on it but didn't quite make it. Neither the pilot or any of his 4 crew members lived to tell the tale. These little memorials dot the landscape here, there and everywhere.

It’s February…

Therefore it’s time to bottle the cider. Some things occur like the rising of the moon or the daily sunset. Stuff happens. In February, the old farts get together to scratch and spit and bottle the year’s crop of cider. I am always too late for the crush which occurs in late November but I am grateful that they never let me miss the bottling. It is such a fun event to participate in, and is held in the out buildings of a castle that has been in the same family for over 400 years. It just gives me the Willy’s.

Much like bottling our wine, it’s not exactly rocket science but it is hands on. Plus, there are tangible benefits. The first year that I was invited, I was suggesting all kinds of ways to make the operation faster, easier and more efficient. They smiled at the foreign poopy head who was all American in his production line cost cutting efficiency thinking, looking for a greater ROI, but who was missing the point of the process entirely. There is history here and I am darn lucky to be allowed to participate in it.

January, 2012

Chateau de Largoet

Constructed between the 13th and 15th centuries, the walls are between 6 and 10 m thick. (18-30 feet). Between 1474 and 1476 it protected Henry Tudor, later to become Henry VII, King of England. In 1490, Charles VIII of France, dismantled the castle but it was restored under the influence of Anne of Brittany. The movie "Lancelot" among others, was shot on location here. It is located outside of Vannes, 90 minutes from our front door. It has seen ongoing restoration since the 1970s.

For the past several years, every month while in France I post a picture of one of the 4,000 castles here that we have either visited or will visit as a masthead to the months blog. At the island its, well, the islands. Gosh, do we ever love the variety.

Mandy, again.

Having just recently completed her Master’s degree in International Commercial Arbitration Law from the University of Stockholm, daughter Mandy was approached by the largest law firm in Aachen Germany (where she and Markus live) and offered a position. She has joined 19 other attorneys and a support staff of 25, the latter who she will be responsible for managing as she serves as a legal adviser on EU law and Arbitration law cases. Multi-tasking, she teaches English to select legal staff and is the liaison for English speaking clients.

Self-effacing, reserved and lacking in self-confidence, Mandy called us with the news a mere 20 minutes after it was a done deal announcing “the writing is on the wall…I am on track to become partner!” The apple does not fall far from her mother’s side of the tree. I can hardly wait for her to be appointed judge so I can get all my speeding tickets fixed. Seriously, we are VERY proud of our girl.

In April she is scheduled to travel to Ireland to attend an International Client Counseling competition. In the past, she has participated as a student in Europe and Asia but this time was invited to coach the team.

Mandy and Markus had planned to come visit us for the holidays but a combination of now having two families to split their time with, a new job to prepare for as well as Markus having school responsibilities, it began to become a crazy maker so we decided to go visit them. We spent Christmas day with friends in our village then set off for Germany the next morning.

Driving across France, Belgium, the Netherlands and finally into Germany is a pretty good run, but in truth is little more than half the length of California. Still, we were early enough to make it on time to take them out for dinner to celebrate Mandy’s new job. We had last visited the kids in May so throughout the week we finished up several ‘honey do’ tasks. We installed a washer and dishwasher, hung rods and curtains, repaired a faucet, hung pictures and shelves, etc.

Between tasks, we took a day to visit the city of Trier, the oldest city in Germany, founded by the Romans in 16 BC. Located near the Luxembourg border, it happens to have been the birthplace of Karl Marx, and is classed as a World heritage site (WHS) due to its multiple Roman archeological remains.

We visited several, including the amphitheater, the baths, and the entry ‘gate’ to the city (above). Of course, the big dog was the Cathedral of Trier itself. Having visited more Cathedrals in Europe than I can count, I am struck by how many purport to contain incredibly significant religious remains and artifacts. There are ossuaries containing skeletal remains of saints by the dozens, but this Cathedral displays what it says is the seamless tunic that Christ wore just before being crucified. It has been on display only 3 times in the past century and is scheduled to be shown again in April, 2012.

A nail used in Christ's crucifixtion?

Also in the heavily secured Crypt (It would have given Mission Impossible a run for its money) were a plethora of centuries old chalices and other large, gold, ornate religious objects including their prized possession: a single nail recovered from Christ’s crucifixion. This became the 97^th WHS I have visited.

We wrapped up our visit by attending New Year’s services at the Dom in Aachen where the kids live. It is quite a sight being below the throne where for over 600 years, 30 Kings and 12 Queens were crowned and where Charlemagne* is buried.

*Note to young readers: Charlemagne was way before Britney Spears. Radical, huh?

Note to very young readers: Like, Charlemagne was, like, even before your parents were, like, born!! Sooooo 7^th century!

Parlex vous Francais?

Janice has been working on her French language Rosetta Stone computer program on and off for several years and has found it to be very helpful. Recently though, she has started to take French lessons from a lady nearby. I wondered about this at first, considering that she is married to a fluent French speaker but she chooses to only speak English around the house.

I am guessing that part of the reason is that it is very fatiguing to work your brain in a new language from morning to night, and that English at home is a bit of a break. Perhaps most importantly is the fact that what she studies with this lady is not conversational French but French grammar. Explain French grammar, Moi? “Vous etes kidding, right?” I could no more explain French grammar than the inner workings of a synchrotron, and I haven’t a clue what that is.

What's shaking?

The only other news from this side of the pond has been Janice's continuation of her painting classes, my continuation of working on my little forging [blacksmithing] projects (show-and-tell next month) and spending a little time helping some buddies on theirs. This was the first time I have done any slate roofing and it is quite different than what we are used to but it will go in the experience bank.

Fashionista

As long as we are bragging about kids, it is high time I raise the subject of our niece, 20 something Christine. While her day job is working for my brother’s firm “Vigilantia”, who purports to offer “international investigation consulting, comprehensive domestic and foreign intelligence services to the legal, corporate and financial communities”, her avocation has been to be on the bleeding edge of the fashion world.

Fashionista Christine

I thought her interest in fashion was kind of cute at first, but she has become a serious contender in this milieu and is no longer to be taken lightly. This is one of those cases where we are watching someone on the cusp of breaking out into the big time and can only hope she remembers us little people when she does. You can see her site HERE or at http://www.vigilantfashionista.com/ For you old farts who think high fashion is baggy pants, T shirt and a baseball cap, you seriously need this girls help.

Christian Dior, Yves St Laurent, Prada…..beware. There is new kid in town.

December, 2011

California dreaming

Home sweet home

Last month I ended the Epistle with a mention that we had just arrived In Los Angeles to visit our daughter Kami and friends Ed and Marilyn. Knowing that we would be on the plane on (American) Thanksgiving day, they prepared a day-before-Thanksgiving dinner for us. How sweet was that? Then after an evening Jacuzi under the Los Angeles sky, we flew to Paris the next morning.

The Eagle has landed

It didn’t take long to settle back into village life here. Except for the 9 hour time change which we deal with by simply taking sleeping pills at night for the first week, we quickly got back into the groove. Janice ran off to rejoin her art class, I headed to the blacksmith to order up some metal for a project or two and we got back in touch with our friends and neighbors here. Dinner invitations started flying back and forth with plans being laid for upcoming outings.

The first was returning to a monthly dinner club that some friends belong to. The meals are great but the focus of the club is French viticulture. You know, the practical study of the art and science of winemaking. Everything from the tannins to soil compositions are explained. Every meeting covers a small but different part of France with producers of that area providing wines from their viniards. Throughout the 4 hour dinner, we sampled 8-9 wines (I was so thrirsty, I lost count) from the area just north of Avignon in Provence.

As hard as it may be for you to believe, we have no plans for any major projects or travel this winter. There is little of any significance to do to this house and we are trying to set an example of fiscal discipline for our president by “saving” for the major works we will need to do upon our return home in California next year as opposed to borrowing from the Chinese.

The blacksmithing project will involve forging a substantial support for a large flower pot which will hang from a post I installed on the dock at the island last summer. I will also forge a set of doors for our wine storage area here. Unlike many of the locals who have wine cellars, we fake it by having an area in our garage where we store ours. Amateurs by their standards, we store a modest 250 bottles or so.

This, mind you, is the St. Emilion Bordeau wine and cider I help bottle with the local fellas every winter. Up till this year, we had to remove it all to a secret hiding place during our 7 month absence, while rental and home exchange guests were here. Now, we will simply lock the mediaeval looking doors and all will be secure. OK, so have one project to do..

Helping Loic build his carport

Not one to sit on my thumbs, I have the opportunity to step up to the plate and offer to help some folks who have been so kind to us in the past. We have a few friends who are doing modest projects of their own so I have stopped by, hammer in hand, to see just how much damage I could do.

Helping Thierry insulate a wall

They do things differently here

Every year I note some of the different ways of seeing and doing things here. Sometimes impressive, sometimes humorous, sometimes aggravating but always something that adds to the flavor of our time in France. Here are some latest observations.

President Sarkozy recently said that the French ways of retiring early and working 35 hour work weeks with 5 to 6 weeks’ vacation for all was unsustainable and that the country was- and would continue- paying a heavy price for it. Predictably, it was largely meet with derision by those who have a well develloped sense of entitlement.

In these economic times he often seems like the only adult in the room while some seem more like school kids who are thrilled that the school is closed for the day because of a snowstorm, completely clueless as to the long term consequences of their short term gain. I would trade his more realistic, no-nonsense, tough love economic approach for Obama in a New York minute. But that is just me.

France will stop writing paper medical prescriptions within two years. They are digitizing the entire system where the doctor ‘writing’ the prescription will not only send it directly to the pharmacy but to a central records keeping database. This will eliminate massive amounts of paper record keeping and personnel, thus achieving huge savings. Absolutely brilliant!

I mentioned earlier that we settled in quickly. Truth is, we sort of did. When we arrive, there is always a substantial delay in getting our phone and internet up and running. You would think that after doing this for 8 years we could simply call ahead and say “Dude, you are killing me here, turn everything back on!” You would be wrong.

Every year, we have to physically go to the local phone company office and re-invent the wheel. We must provide proof of having a residence here (home insurance docs) and a copy of our US tax returns (proving that we are foreigners with a second residence here) I could easily have dispelled any doubts on that subject by sharing my political predilections but that’s another matter. Time in the office to reorder the activation of our phone and internet? 2 ½ hours.

Four or five days later the phone was turned on, but for reasons known only to God and the phone company, the internet took a full two weeks to be activated. Speedy efficient service is not one of the strengths here. Still, when the lights finally blinked on my modem, my hands shook with excitement like an alcoholic with DT’s going cold turkey.

Within a few days of our return, we discovered that the main power breaker to the house tripped 4 times in the first 5 days. With some kind of delay mechanism built in, it took nearly 2 hours to re-set itself each time, invariably in the evening after dark. We suspected that there was inadequate power being supplied to our home as we had added a number of electric radiators, the sauna as well as other appliances not always found here. You see in America the standard home power supply is 200 Amps. You use whatever you want and you pay based on your consumption. What is ‘available’ is irrelevant; it’s what you use that counts.

Here, you pay based on how much power is available to you (with substantial increases in cost for each step up) plus whatever power you consume. When we bought the house years ago, it had 30 Amps of ‘available’ power. (about as much as a motorhome) We quickly raised it to 45 Amps until we had the problems when we arrived this year and raised it again to 60 Amps. You hardly want to run around turning the coffee pot off so you can run the dishwasher. Time to upgrade? 3 weeks.

Still, the bread here makes up for any other shortcomings.

Merry Christmas!