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February, 2020



Bonjour and stuff


Yup, we are back. Having barely recovered from the jet lag, we are in full swing. We said goodbye to US friends for the season and hello to our French ones. We are in for some busy months ahead here this year but look forward to it. California is behind us for now and is but a distant memory. 


Say hello to Vicky and Richard


In our first week we spent our time with the usual maintenance and repairs required after any 8 month absence, but we soon set out to visit some local sights. There is an American cemetery nearby as this immediate region was the landing area for operation Dragoon and the US Army VI corps in August 1944. Of course, this opened a second front to fight the German army. There are 860 men (and one woman) buried here, this being the smallest American cemetery, among the many, we have visited here in Europe.




The town of Draguignan is also the home of a large French infantry brigade so we stopped by to visit their museum.




Finally, we had our traditional Valentine day dinner at our favorite restaurant in the little medieval town of Ramatuelle. Over the years we have tried hard to create new memories, as in 1996 Janice was diagnosed with her first cancer on Valentines day.




Patient update


So, Janice has been continuing with her ongoing cancer treatments and is aggressively researching all possible alternative treatments. No, not humming in the dark or bowing to crystals, but meeting with a world class immunologist and keeping up with other cutting edge new drugs about to be released.

Occasionally, she has another PET scan to check on the progress of her treatment. The latest one shows that her cancer is ... (drum roll please) ... diminishing! Yahoo! We were buoyed when her doctor told her that she would eventually die, but of something other than cancer. Meanwhile we had an oncologist lined up here in France, have met with him and her next treatment is in two days. All treatments in the 3 countries we live in are identical.

There was one fly in the ointment though, when she developed a blood clot in one arm a few days before we left. Her doctor called for a medication that had to be injected every 12 hours for a week. Having spent so much time in prison, he figured I would be as good as the best of them at stabbing, so I got to play doctor. With 14 subcutaneous* injections
 into my patient under my belt, I figure I am ready to teach the procedure. I even had to inject my patient during our flight to France, half way over the Atlantic. (*That is secret code we doctors use to describe under the skin.)



Oops! Phone's ringing, gotta go. Maybe its the Harvard medical school.


Just lollygagging around


We went out for a little fun one night before we left California when we were invited by a friend (and former employer for Janice) to a local club to watch his band perform. Great fun! It would be too easy to conclude that he is just a rocker but as we all know, you should never judge a book by its long haired cover.

He is actually our dentist here, a superb one at that, graduated a year early from dental school and at one time was the youngest dentist ever to be appointed to the dental board of examiners in California. I could just imagine the look on their faces when he walked into a dental practice to check on them.


Rock on, dude!



ADVON /RECON

I came back from my 2 week deployment to the Bahamas with Team Rubicon in October. One of the things I really respect about the organization is that they take the training of their volunteers seriously and put their money where their mouth is. Most other organizations put the call out for folks to come help when a disaster happens, and when they show up they hand them a shovel or a hammer and have them 'go at it'.

Deployments always involve grunt work but the Team Rubicon (TR) culture calls for working smarter, not harder. As a result, they spend  money on the front end to upgrade their volunteers skills and knowledge to make the time they are deployed much more efficient and GSD. (An official TR acronym for "Get shit done")

When TR shows up at a disaster site with heavy equipment (Earth movers, huge backhoes, skip loaders etc) they don't hand the keys to someone like me, a simple know it all. No, the operators are volunteers with a minimum of 10 years of professional experience with additional training from TR to work safely in a disaster environment.

Something as simple as operating a chain saw, a task many of us have done our whole lives, requires a week end of training from TR sawyer instructors on safety procedures before you can get 'trigger time'. Other courses are offered either online or in classroom training.

Our season here this year saw me attend some of these daylong classroom training sessions. One was "Stop the Bleed", a kind of advanced basic first aid class to deal with emergency trauma accidents in the field before our medics, nurses or doctors that are embedded with us arrive. Another was "Damage Assessment". This is something done out in the field when we first meet homeowners who request help, to determine what our strike teams will actually have to do. 

Will they have to tarp the roof to prevent more water damage? Will they have to remove all the drywall and insulation soaked from floodwater? Are there downed trees blocking access to their car and preventing them to go to their dialysis appointments? Is there a hole in the roof or a breached wall that will need to be closed up with plywood? Once we know what we will need to do, we can assign a strike team with the proper equipment and materials to ... eh... GSD. (Refer to paragraph 2)

Every aspect of the work has a random way of doing it or a TR way. You would think that something as basic as tarping a roof would mean tossing tarps up there and tacking them down, right? TR trains its volunteers on the proper techniques to prevent water penetration and protecting it from having the wind rip the tarps off in the next storm.

The last class I took before our departure was ADVON / RECON. A cool TR acronym for advance reconnaissance. When we see a disaster unfold on TV, TR sends an advance team to meet with local authorities (Police, fire, city administrators, etc) sometimes as the disaster is unfolding, to assess how bad things are, and to determine how much and what kind of help they will need. The team locates and secures a place to set up the FOB (officially called a Forward Operating Base) or the place we will set up the equipment and supplies when they arrive, and determine where our people will stay. (School gym, vacant warehouse, bunk house trailers, etc.) In other words, everything that will need to be done before the national call for volunteers to come is sent out. 

A TR mantra is that "My mother is a donor", a constant reminder that the donations that pay for everything that TR does, needs to be spent as though it was my money to get as much bang for the buck as possible.


OK, OK, yes we did work 
on a project or two.

No, we did not spend all our time in night clubs and bars this past month. We did manage to do a little thing or two, among them stain our new back patio. I mentioned last month that we organized the concrete pour and after letting it cure for a month, we were ready to stain the raw grey surface.

Before


During





After


I have mentioned that with our arriving later than usual this season, there was a limited time frame to tackle any big project. So, I went on a aggressive maintenance and repair mode. I built the house 35 years ago and we are real persnickety about everything working well and looking fresh and new. The reality is that some of the deeply buried infrastructure can begin to show its age. Everything from coffee makers to water softeners and furnaces eventually get tired or give up the ghost. 

In fact, I was in the bathroom when Janice walked in, pointed to the ceiling fan and said "enough!". "Its REALLY powerful" I shouted over the deafening roar of the 35 year old inexpensive jet engine sounding fan as it rattled, hoping that my BS explanation would appease her. The thing is, its always more fun to build something new and sexy than to tear out some old appliance to replace it. It had simply not occurred to me at the time of building the house that -some day- I would have to replace these things. The new one is as quiet as our fridge. That said, now when I do anything I keep in mind that I will have a do over 35 years from now. 

As always, we have everything lined up for next years great ideas that Janice has come up with, so that when we arrive we can hit the ground running, building cool new stuff and in TR vernacular, GSD.




So, would you prefer a political joke?




OK, fine. Here you go.









January, 2020




Hi there!

Free time activities

Christmas came and went. Come to think of it, so did New years. We spent it quietly with Janice's mother as none of the kids or friends love us enough to come visit. (Roll eyes here) So, we had time to have our staircase re-carpeted and replaced an electric cook top with a gas one. The house had never been plumbed for a gas appliance so it was quite an undertaking to run a line invisibly through the kitchen cabinets, a concrete foundation and dig a trench underground to the existing gas pipe. Nothing that would ever cause a moments hesitation with my bride, mind you.

Next, I was tasked to organize a concrete pour for a patio in the back of the house. Previously, we had a mix of dirt, wood and plastic Trex deck and walkway and it was time to upgrade and consolidate. We have plans for the area, of course, and we will talk about them when they are done.




Finally, the sexiest and cheapest (ha!) improvement was replacing our septic tank. Since they usually last about 30 years, I should only need to replace it once more before  I am pushing up daisies.


The Book

Well now... we are finally published authors! Yes sir indeed, who knows, a movie next? You might not want to rush off to order your copy on Amazon as they are currently out of stock, because it had a total press run of...eh... two.

You know that we rent our home out for short term vacation rentals while we are away. Well, several years ago we had guests who commented or asked about a specific piece of art we had collected that had caught their eye. So, I took some pictures and printed them, adding a little caption to explain the back story on its acquisition. The whole quick and dirty effort was put in a cheesy 3 ring binder and left laying around for folks to look at if they were interested. 

This year we got back to find the binder hinge broken from use and many, many comments written in our guest book about how much they enjoyed it. OK then, time to up our game, we decided. Janice re photographed everything with my high faluten super duper I Phone 11 + Pro (with the 3 cameras) and I set out to polish up the little stories behind each piece. Then, off to the publisher the 30 pages went for a glossy hardcover finished coffee table book. 

As far as I can tell the only down side is that there was no retainer or advance fee on our book, nor will there be any royalties or residuals. It is not an easy life we lead.




We maybe suckers for eclectic art, but not having $120,000 in my sock drawer, we will have to pass on this one...





It's that time again



Time to make like Michael Jackson and "Just beat it!" Having spent a month at daughter Cassie's place before returning home, our time here got cut short this year. We did manage to catch up with friends but with 5 weeks less it felt a little rushed. Still, it was a great season for us. We got stuff done, goofed off more than usual and moved plans forward in important ways. We even had our granddaughter Maddie do a drive by for a few nights with her fellow on her way back to school in Los Angeles. We also got major boring business stuff behind us, like having our wills and trusts updated for at least another decade. It was worse than going to the dentist. Only we did that too, as well as a boatload of doctor appointments. You would think that we are becoming old people or something.

So now we make one last round of visits with friends, then get outa town before the bills catch up with us. We will get to trade dysfunctional American politics for French ones.


Our sky


By the way, if you are not in California and can take pictures of clouds or rain, be sure to send us some. We would hate to forget what they look like :)







December, 2019

Hello :)
Guess who is all done with chemo 
and graduated with honors?


Home

This month has been a lot of things but productive is questionable. I have had a ton of necessary but boring as all-get-out paperwork to push around, a boatload of cleaning up and landscaping to pinch hit for Janice who is not up to her usual self to take care of, and endless maintenance around the house after a 9 month absence.

For instance, you would think that something as goofy simple as re-oiling the woodwork in the house would be something that could be done in short order. An hour or two tops. The thing is, when I built the house I custom built all the cabinets out of Honduran Mahogany with Peruvian Walnut inlays. Then I did the same for many of the door frames, window frames, art nooks and cranny's, the circular staircase banister and a ton of extraordinarily large window frames above the walls in the kids bedrooms. 

Its beautiful alright but two days into re-oiling it (not stain or paint but a nourishing teak oil to prevent the wood from drying out) and I cant believe how much work went into this. If I had to do it all over again, I would do it all over again. Still....

I had to remind myself that these are all things that we would have to do anyway if we we here full time, but I compress in the first few weeks upon our return before tacking new, fun and exciting projects that are in Janice's endless hopper. Its the price of doing business.

The reprieve comes when friends and family show up at our door.

Daughter Kami with her fur baby Finn

Nebraska regulars: Cousin Monte, Cinde, 
favorite mother in law ''sweetie pie''


This may not be Texas, but here we take 
our cinnamon rolls seriously


We did manage to replace our refrigerator and had all our palm trees pruned. After some serious planning and prep work, we will wrap up a few serious projects underway before we leave at the beginning of February.


Meanwhile, our yearly routine requires us to take two full days and a $1,000 to have our French visa's renewed. This means driving to Los Angeles to the French Consulate to be interviewed and 'processed'. Our passports are then sent by courier to Paris to have the visa's attached and returned to us about 2-3 week later.

REMEMBER THIS NAME

While in LA for the above, we caught up with our grand daughter Maddie who just started Woodbury university to study animation. A real ball of fire, she is on the path to give Disney a run for their money in a few years when she graduates. At 17, she single handedly bagged a scholarship worth more than most people earn in a year. Or two years. She has scheduled her Easter break to dip her toe in France with us next March.


MADDIE THOMASON.  
You will recognise the name when the credits roll.....







Monthly humor



As for you, we hope you have a great day. 
Unless you have made other plans.






November, 2019


The end is near



After suffering public shaming for years, the relentless ridicule and humiliation of friends and family, against my better judgment I finally gave in to the endless peer pressure, drank the current version of the Jim Jones Cool Aid, was dragged over to the dark side kicking and screaming and bought a smart phone.

Now I can finally communicate  with my kids (and some friends) during meals by texting them across the table while pretending to scroll and count how many 'likes' I have in my yet to be created social media account, to provide me with the positive affirmation I so desperately need and crave. 

My previous flip phone, while a hell of a lot cheaper, made the same phone calls as the best of them and is now in the local...eh...museum. Happy Ian? :)


Home away from home

We settled in for spell at daughter Cassie's place this month, while Janice got Chemo treatments 4 and 5 behind her. This gave me a chance to make myself useful some while mooching, so Janice could get much needed time to rest.

Teaching Papa new magic


Art and Cassie


Favorite son Wesley came to visit during our stay


But then, in a flash, I was gone.


OPERATION DORIAN






It's that time of the year again. Time to get in touch with life as lived by so many others year round. I have mentioned that I was asked to deploy to the Bahamas with Team Rubicon the day after hurricane Dorian hit back in September, but turned them down because of Janice's need for me to stay with her at the island. No sooner had I settled her in with Cassie days after we arrived from the island, they reminded me that while the world has long forgotten them, the folks in the Bahamas (like the folks in Puerto Rico who are still devastated and trying to rebuild from hurricane Maria in 2017) are in one helluva mess and are seriously hurting. 

Since they were offering an all expense paid trip to lay on the beaches in the Bahamas, I couldn't pass it up. I rushed to get my vaccinations up to date (MMR, Tetanus and Hepatitis A & B) and completed the 7 page medical eligibility requirements. I am not a disaster junkie, but I had committed to volunteer 2 weeks per year and this was only my 3rd foray. Since I am on the international team, this was my first foreign deployment. So, I was off.

Just so I didn't go under any illusions as to what to expect, I got this friendly uplifting reminder from them before I left.

Personal Capability Requirements 
to deploy on this operation:

"Before you step on the plane, we wanted to provide you some guidance on this and all international deployments. Due to the austere nature of international operations and given the destructive power of the storm, there is very little vehicle transport on Abaco Island. This storm devastated the islands of Abaco and Grand Bahama, so much that 70% of the islands' residents have evacuated and have yet to return.


You must be able to thrive in austere conditions. You will be sleeping on the floor in a sleeping bag. Meals will be MREs (US Army Meals Ready to Eat and water). Showers will be via water hose. Outhouses would be an upgrade. You must be physically able to carry your own weight, personal gear, and strike team equipment to your work site in tropical weather. There will be multiple modes of travel to include helicopter, sea plane, private jet, yacht, and other watercraft. You are likely to encounter human remains on this operation.



Attached are your travel orders, dispatch instructions and a video (above) of your work site. Thank you for taking the time out of your lives and stepping into the arena to help those in the Bahamas recover from Hurricane Dorian. Now go kick disaster in the teeth and get shit done.

Your teammates at dispatch."


OK then, let the fun begin....



I flew the 16 hours from Oregon to Nassau, spent the night and made the second flight to Marsh Harbor, the central town on Abaco island. At 120 miles in length, it covers 650 sq miles. It was by far the worst hit area of hurricane Dorian. We were located 200 miles east of Miami and 120 miles north of Nassau off of Grand Bahamas. The local airport was destroyed and only fly by the seat of the pants flights could come in.



Honey I'm home!




I have been told that there is a certain perversity in choosing to subject yourself to hideous conditions on purpose when it can be avoided. A fair statement, but for me does not tell the whole story.

The whole "I am off to save the world" thing is great, but truth be told there is a part of me that needs this yearly experience to ground myself in reality. We joke about it 'not being an easy life we lead', but the fact is we may have worked hard for what we have but it is still much more than we deserve. It is the very definition of being blessed and I want to preserve my attitude of gratitude at all costs.

These deployments remind me just how quickly, easily and randomly it can all be taken away. I know perfectly well what the little I did amounted to... except to those people who we did help. 

Enough said. Here is what it looked like on the ground.


With many roads being out, sometimes there is was no other way to get around, especially to the outlying islands.

I was on a 15 day wave of 52 mostly ex-military, hard charging, type A personalities (my kind of people!) who simply don't know the meaning of "I can’t" and only know how to adjust, adapt and overcome any problem. What could possibly go wrong? To be fair, they did their very best to keep up with me :) The conditions were brutal but the experience was incredible.


During our deployment, we had 2 medics, a nurse and a doctor. They were available in their capacity if needed but were assigned to work with strike teams like the rest of us. The doctor was assigned to work on the team I lead, which was one of seven. The US coast guard was prepared to medivac anyone on the team back to Miami if necessary as there was little in the way of medical resources otherwise available.


The conditions

There was no electricity or functioning cell towers where I went, so no phones or Wi-Fi. [What? No FOX news? Catastrophe!!! Say it isn't so!!!] For the next two weeks I might as well have been on the far side of the moon.

In the US, no matter how bad things are locally, Team Rubicon can truck in portable showers, sleeping trailers (sometimes), a mobile kitchen, toilets, as many rented pickup trucks as we need for transportation, earth movers, skip loaders, backhoes and tractor trailers full of all manner of tools and equipment from hundreds of miles away if necessary from our storage depots located throughout the US. Each operation has a tractor trailer for a command office, complete with generators and a satellite uplink. Here, nothing could be brought in unless it was flown or barged in. 



We could not trust the local water supply so we treated our own and stored it in the 5000 liter collapsible storage bag (brown bag above the wall) to the multiple spigots.

Food on stateside deployments is always terrific but we knew going in that this would not be the case under these conditions. The MRE's (US Army Meals Ready to Eat, AKA field rations) and water we were provided 3 times a day were OK, and only tasted bad while we ate them. Lest there be any misunderstanding about how we really felt about these culinary treats, we quickly renamed them Meals Rejected by Ethiopians. No complaints though, we all knew that we didn't come for the dental plan.


MRE's: Breakfast, lunch and dinner of champions

Personal hygiene is critical in this environment. At home we have shampoo, conditioner, body wash, hand soap, dish soap and clothes detergent. Not having a Sherpa to lug extra stuff around, here a bar of soap served all purposes.


Fill your bag in the AM, lay it out in the sun
and shower upon your return to base. 
When the 3 gallons are gone, you are done.


The wave that preceded mine had located a vacant school that had sustained some damage but could be salvaged. They tarped the roof and gutted the building to the studs, removing all soaked drywall, insulation and moldy furniture. They, we moved in and took it over as our quarters and staging area. Some of us had to stay in emergency pods outdoors. (because of the look, we dubbed the area 'space camp') In a re-play of last year, this time I was put in the corner of Mrs. Sanders 2nd grade classroom with 7 other people (co – ed) 


 My corner of the gutted classroom. The nets were due to the abundance of flies. 
The flies were due to human remains still under so much debris nearby.

Some of the emergency pods some of us stayed in, 
in an area we dubded 'space camp'.


 For our convenience  we were provided 
with washing machines to do our laundry...


...and dryers

Some have asked if the damage done by hurricane Dorian was worse than what I saw in Mexico Beach, Florida last year.  At some point you can't see more damage when it is total. Both locations had neighborhoods where street after street could not be identified as to where you were, as there was nothing left recognizable. No street signs, no house numbers - no houses - just cement slabs where homes had been and piles of splintered wood, glass, wire, metal and insulation. Furniture, appliances and bed mattresses could be seen impaled in tree stumps sometimes a mile or more from where they came.

I guess the biggest difference is that in Florida, the damage was over a 50 mile radius. In the Bahamas, the category 5 storm with 185 MPH (300 KPH) lasted 4 days and covered over 1200 square miles. I could post these kinds of pictures all day long but this sampling should give you the idea.




How much worse could it be?
  


OK, fellas. Let's start on 3rd avenue. 
Hmmm... where is 3rd avenue?

Another big difference is that Dorian changed the topography of the islands. There are now bays where there were none and some that existed are filled in with sediment that got moved. 95% of the locals have no insurance and 70% of the residents have left and not returned. Not surprising with so much of the electrical grid out of commission. No lights, phones or Internet and obviously no refrigeration, A/C, ability to cook, water pumps and on and on... Did I mention no FOX news? :)


 So what did we do?


Generally, we worked on what we called 'societal restoration', not to be confused with what the military would call 'nation building'. We patched holes in roofs with plywood then tarped them to keep the water out, brought in tractor trailer sized generators to re-open schools and provide power to some residential sectors, and cleared debris to re-open roads. 

Two of the 6 people on my strike team, helping me tarp a roof. 
The others gutted the interior to the studs to remove moldy
 furniture, appliances, drywall insulation and ductwork.

The idea being that if we could help not only home owners to get back into their homes and schools, but clinics to reopen, businesses get back up running so people can slowly return to their jobs, earn a living, provide services for more to return, we can begin the cycle of putting their society back together again.

 Welcome to the 'hood

Often, I would struggle with the time and effort we were putting in to salvage what were very modest homes to begin with. Even when the exterior looked somewhat salvageable, the 185 mph winds and 4 days or relentless rain pouring through the shattered windows and filled the houses with water. 

People evacuated and two months later in the 85 degree weather with 90% humidity we opened the doors to what was now a mold incubator. Walls, ceilings, floors, furniture, appliances all covered with mold. My solution? A match. Easy for me to say, but I had to remind myself that this was all they had. Period.

We helped the World Central Kitchen organization set up their site to cook 8000 meals a day as there are no grocery stores open to supply the relatively few remaining residents. We even brought food out by boat to the outlying islands. (As if Abaco was not remote enough!) Every business - bar none- was  destroyed and looted. Now, pretty much everything has to be flown in at great costs as even the only port sustained much damage and is only able to accommodate fairly small ships and only one at a time. 

How do you cook 8,000 meals a day? 
You use 5 foot wide frying pans (they had 8 of them)

Boats piled up on top of each other at the port. 
Hundreds more were on rooftops, in the trees or on the roads.

Reinforced concrete walls could not 
stand up to the 4 days of 185 MPH winds. 

Guardrail impaled in a palm tree

Parts of the Bahamas fared better than others,  but not where we were. All in all, the area we were in resembled Hiroshima after the bomb was dropped. As the video I took below shows, as close to total destruction as can be imagined. It was as if God himself decided that the area should cease to exist and stomped his foot on it. 

Be sure to open to full screen

Abaco has gone from a tourist destination to sail, fish and lay on the beaches to a 3rd world country that, in my opinion, will not be put back together again in my lifetime. Occasionally, we would find a home that we could do something to help restore and get the family back in.

Thousands of telephone poles (and virtually all trees) snapped like tooth pics, leaving hundreds of miles of power and phone lines twisted like spaghetti on roadways, across sidewalks, in peoples yards and trees.


Sadly, I saw no government activity of any kind working to restore anything. 
The place looked like the hurricane had hit yesterday.


My two week deployment over for the year, I happily returned filthy and exhausted to the arms of my trophy bride.